Written By
Kristin Wojkowski
Director of Experiential Curation & Historic Swimwear
Most people I know are surprised to learn that I experience a lot of interior anxiety. I’m what you might call an extroverted introvert—I can show up, speak up, and seem outgoing. I organize events, gather groups and Lindy Hop. But it often takes deep breaths and quiet pep talks to get there so taking solo outings in London, especially to explore the Magnificent Seven cemeteries, was a lot.
Anxiety is part of my inner landscape, but I’ve learned to do the things that scare me, not because I’m fearless, but because I’ve made the choice that experience matters more than my fear. When I recently had the chance to go to London, I said YES—even though my fiancé would be working during the day and I would be working in the afternoon. This meant, if I wanted to explore, it would be by myself.
Exploring London’s Magnificent Seven Cemeteries with a Vintage Eye
As a solo woman wandering through London’s tangled web of history, I found myself drawn not to the crowds of touristy places like Buckingham Palace or the bustle of the Theatre District, but to quieter grounds—places where the past speaks silently through stone, rusty ironworks, and overgrown plants.
One of the first things I do in a “new to me” locale is search for old cemeteries. Armed with an Oyster card (public transportation card) and a fascination for all things vintage, I embarked on a pilgrimage to visit a few of the oldest cemeteries in London, including two of the famed Magnificent Seven cemeteries: Highgate and Abney Park. I also visited Bunhill Fields, which I learned predates the Seven.
These garden-style cemeteries were established in the 19th century to help with the overcrowded churchyards of London. Hundreds of years later, each of these Magnificent Seven cemeteries has its own haunting charm. Walking among the decaying angels (could not not think about Dr. Who and the weeping angels), the crumbling monuments felt like time travel in its purest form.
Highgate Cemetery
My first stop was Highgate, the crown jewel of the Seven and my personal favorite of my visits. This trip involved taking the tube, changing trains, and a 20-minute walk.
While Highgate is known for its dramatic Victorian architecture and famous residents—including Karl Marx, George Eliot (pen name of author Mary Ann Evans), and Freud—I didn’t really pay much attention to those.
I prefer to walk down dirt- and plant-covered pathways and stop when inspired to read the names and inscriptions when able. I like to say hello and honor those permanently at rest.
Drawn to one cross with a floral wrap carved around it, I didn’t take a photo, as it felt (and was) more modern. Later, I learned it was the monument of George Michael. I didn’t realize it, as it was listed under his full Greek name. In hindsight, it was interesting to me that I felt called to it.
Overgrown pathways and crumbling monuments, some fallen and some impossible to read—this cemetery is known for a magician’s duel and stake-carrying vampire hunters. I half-expected a raven to call out from a crypt. I really wanted to be able to say these events took place in Victorian times, but it was actually the 1970s. If you want to read about this, Atlas Obscura has an article here: https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/day-3-vampires-magic-duels-and-headless-bodies. The atmosphere is irresistible, with layers and multi-dimensions of tombstones and monuments that make Highgate one of the most iconic of the Magnificent Seven cemeteries.
Bunhill Fields
I made my way by foot to Bunhill Fields, a burial ground predating the Victorian era (it dates back to at least the 1660s) and the resting place of many nonconformists—those who stood outside the official Church of England. Here lie William Blake, John Bunyan, and Daniel Defoe.
Smaller and more manicured than Highgate, much of Bunhill is behind ironwork and not accessible.
Photos were taken through gates and fences. It feels like a secret tucked between the concrete of the modern city. I sat on a wooden bench and reflected on the peaceful environment in the middle of a bustling cityscape.
I learned the name is likely derived from the original Bone Hill. Earlier inhabitants are thought to have died from the plague, with the earliest tombstone inscribed “Grace, daughter of T. Cloudesly, of Leeds. February 1666.” I could not see this monument. My information was from an online source. Though not officially one of the Magnificent Seven cemeteries, Bunhill Fields belongs in the same conversation for its history and sense of quiet reverence.
Abney Park
My last visit was to Abney Park Cemetery in Stoke Newington. This trip involved a 30-minute bus ride. On this ride I started to wonder if I was headed to a “safe” place.
My anxiety spiked as I read, “do not go alone, stick to the path and posted hours.” Gulp. I was already more than halfway into my journey, so I pressed on.
Once a grand arboretum, it is now gloriously overgrown, with layers of tombs peeking through thick foliage and trails winding past toppled urns and vine-covered mausoleums. My imagination runs wild. Think of this—you’re seemingly alone in a large, overgrown graveyard. It’s quiet. So quiet you hear twigs and trees snapping. Squirrels and birds. It must be squirrels and birds. And it is. Until it isn’t. One time, I was so startled when taking an up-close photo of a gravestone and, lo, there were two humans laid out behind them. As my sister would say, I hustled my bustle out of there.
The overgrown mossy effects and toppled stone are cinematic, and I couldn’t help but think of my dear friend Karie Bible, who leads the beloved tours at Hollywood Forever Cemetery in Los Angeles (www.cemeterytour.com). Like Karie, I’ve long believed cemeteries are among the richest places to learn about the past—not just who people were, but how they were remembered. She is a constant inspiration and I love our mutual sharing of old cemeteries. Abney Park may be less polished than others, but it holds its place among the Magnificent Seven cemeteries for a reason.
A Call from the Crypt
& the Magnificent Seven cemeteries
Whether you’re a history lover, a vintage soul, or just curious about the quieter corners of London, the Magnificent Seven cemeteries offer a portal into a different kind of storytelling. And if you ever find yourself in Los Angeles, I encourage you to take one of Karie Bible’s tours through Hollywood Forever—proof that across continents, cemeteries continue to speak.
Because the past, as any gravestone will tell you, is never truly buried.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Kristin Wojkowski is the Hollywoodland News Director of Experiential Curation & Historical Swimwear. She is a writer, dancer and lifelong vintage enthusiast with a deep love for hidden histories and solo adventures. She believes cemeteries are sacred classrooms and travel is an act of courage. Kristin is a collector of antique swimwear and has vast knowledge of vintage pre-midcentury modern fashion, lifestyle and events. Located in the San Francisco Bay Area, she is well known for planning vintage inspired events, giving lectures on swimwear and looking fabulous.
Leave a Reply